Pre-Boring Woods for Table Fasteners: CIRAD Ratings Guide

Pre-Boring Woods for Table Fasteners: CIRAD Ratings Guide

Fastener Holding and Pre-Boring in Exotic Table Slabs

Securing a custom tabletop to its base requires careful attention to how the chosen species accepts metal fasteners. When mounting structural cleats, steel base plates, or figure-8 desktop fasteners to a solid timber or hybrid river tabletop, driving screws directly into the underside without proper preparation can result in split grain, snapped screw shanks, or stripped threads. CIRAD (Centre de Coopération Internationale en Recherche Agronomique pour le Développement) details the nailing and screwing properties of dozens of commercial and exotic species in its CIRAD Tropix 7 technical sheets. These ratings classify whether wood holds fasteners reliably, whether pre-boring is mandatory, or whether fastener performance is poor.

CIRAD Fastener Classifications by Species Group

CIRAD evaluates timbers based on mature wood performance, grouping them into distinct mechanical handling categories for nailing and screwing.

Species Requiring Pre-Boring

A substantial portion of imported hardwoods and high-density softwoods hold screws securely once seated, but their dense cell structure and grain resistance cause splitting or hardware failure if driven raw. CIRAD explicitly classifies these timbers as Good but pre-boring necessary:

  • Exotic Hardwoods: African Padauk, Afzelia, Angelim pedra, Angelim vermelho, Ayan, Berlinia, Bilinga / Opepe, Billian, Cabreuva, Ceylon Satinwood, Chengal, Congotali, Cumaru / Tonka, Cupiuba, Ekki, Eyoum, Freijo, Garapa, Grenadillo / Grenadille d’Afrique, Iatandza, Itauba, Jequitiba, Keruing, Limbali, Makoré, Massaranduba, Mecrussé, Mengkulang, Merbau, Moabi, Mora, Muhuhu, Muirapiranga / Bloodwood, Mukulungu, Mutenye, Niove, Nyatoh, Okan, Ovangkol, Padauk amboina, Pau marfim, Pau mulato, Piquia, Preciosa, Pyinkado, Red balau, Red grandis, Rengas, Rosewood Para, Snakewood, Sonokeling Rosewood, Tamalan Rosewood, Tamarindo (Groçai-rosa), Tatajuba, Tauari, Wenge, Yellow balau, and Zebrano.
  • Temperate and Plantation Timbers: European Ash, European Beech, European Larch, European Oak, Rubberwood, Sycamore Maple (Great Maple), and Tasmanian oak.
  • Specialized Structures and Conifers: Atlas Cedar and Coconut wood.

Species Rated Good Without Pre-Boring

Woods rated simply as Good accept fasteners cleanly with standard direct insertion, showing sufficient toughness to prevent splitting while offering solid holding grip:

  • African cordia, African walnut, Agba, Aningeria, Black Guarea (Bossé Foncé), Cerejeira, Curupixa, Dabema, Durian, Etimoe, European Walnut, Gedu nohor, Guanacaste, Haldu, Idigbo, Iroko, Izombe, Kauri, Kosipo, Mango (Machang), Niangon, Olon, Peruvian Walnut, Scented Guarea (Bossé Clair), Scots Pine, Senegal mahogany, Suren, Tchitola, Utile, and Yellowheart.
  • Conditional Timber: Cryptomeria is classified as Good when specific gravity over 0.35.

Species Rated Poor

Certain species exhibit weak internal cohesion or low screw-holding resistance, classified by CIRAD as Poor:

  • Black wattle, Cedrorana, Jacaranda, Jelutong, Louro vermelho, and Yemane.
Wood Nailing and screwing (CIRAD)
African Padauk Good but pre-boring necessary
Afzelia Good but pre-boring necessary
Angelim pedra Good but pre-boring necessary
Angelim vermelho Good but pre-boring necessary
Atlas Cedar Good but pre-boring necessary
Ayan Good but pre-boring necessary
Berlinia Good but pre-boring necessary
Bilinga / Opepe Good but pre-boring necessary
Billian Good but pre-boring necessary
Bintangor Good but pre-boring necessary
Cabreuva Good but pre-boring necessary
Ceylon Satinwood Good but pre-boring necessary
Chengal Good but pre-boring necessary
Coconut wood Good but pre-boring necessary
Congotali Good but pre-boring necessary
Cumaru / Tonka Good but pre-boring necessary
Cupiuba Good but pre-boring necessary
Ekki Good but pre-boring necessary
European Ash Good but pre-boring necessary
European Beech Good but pre-boring necessary
European Larch Good but pre-boring necessary
European Oak Good but pre-boring necessary
Eyoum Good but pre-boring necessary
Freijo Good but pre-boring necessary
Garapa Good but pre-boring necessary
Grenadillo / Grenadille d’Afrique Good but pre-boring necessary
Iatandza Good but pre-boring necessary
Itauba Good but pre-boring necessary
Jequitiba Good but pre-boring necessary
Keruing Good but pre-boring necessary
Limbali Good but pre-boring necessary
Makoré Good but pre-boring necessary
Massaranduba Good but pre-boring necessary
Mecrussé Good but pre-boring necessary
Mengkulang Good but pre-boring necessary
Merbau Good but pre-boring necessary
Moabi Good but pre-boring necessary
Mora Good but pre-boring necessary
Muhuhu Good but pre-boring necessary
Muirapiranga / Bloodwood Good but pre-boring necessary
Mukulungu Good but pre-boring necessary
Mutenye Good but pre-boring necessary
Niove Good but pre-boring necessary
Nyatoh Good but pre-boring necessary
Okan Good but pre-boring necessary
Ovangkol Good but pre-boring necessary
Padauk amboina Good but pre-boring necessary
Pau marfim Good but pre-boring necessary
Pau mulato Good but pre-boring necessary
Piquia Good but pre-boring necessary
Preciosa Good but pre-boring necessary
Pyinkado Good but pre-boring necessary
Red balau Good but pre-boring necessary
Red grandis Good but pre-boring necessary
Rengas Good but pre-boring necessary
Rosewood Para Good but pre-boring necessary
Rubberwood Good but pre-boring necessary
Snakewood Good but pre-boring necessary
Sonokeling Rosewood Good but pre-boring necessary
Sycamore Maple (Great Maple) Good but pre-boring necessary
Tamalan Rosewood Good but pre-boring necessary
Tamarindo (Groçai-rosa) Good but pre-boring necessary
Tasmanian oak Good but pre-boring necessary
Tatajuba Good but pre-boring necessary
Tauari Good but pre-boring necessary
Wenge Good but pre-boring necessary
Yellow balau Good but pre-boring necessary
Zebrano Good but pre-boring necessary
African cordia Good
African walnut Good
Agba Good
Aningeria Good
Black Guarea (Bossé Foncé) Good
Black wattle Poor
Cedrorana Poor
Cerejeira Good
Cryptomeria Good when specific gravity over 0.35
Curupixa Good
Dabema Good
Durian Good
Etimoe Good
European Walnut Good
Gedu nohor Good
Guanacaste Good
Haldu Good
Idigbo Good
Iroko Good
Izombe Good
Jacaranda Poor
Jelutong Poor
Kauri Good
Kosipo Good
Louro vermelho Poor
Mango (Machang) Good
Niangon Good
Olon Good
Peruvian Walnut Good
Scented Guarea (Bossé Clair) Good
Scots Pine Good
Senegal mahogany Good
Suren Good
Tchitola Good
Utile Good
Yellowheart Good
Yemane Poor

Data compiled by BigEpoxy from individual CIRAD Tropix 7 technical sheets (average values for mature wood).

Mounting Table Bases, Cleats, and Fasteners

Understanding these CIRAD classifications directly shapes how hardware should be installed on slab tabletops to maintain stability while allowing for natural seasonal wood movement.

Cleats and Slotted Mounting Brackets

Transverse wooden cleats and slotted metal aprons prevent slab cupping while permitting cross-grain expansion and contraction. When fastening cleats into woods listed as needing pre-boring (such as Wenge, Ekki, European Oak, or Cumaru), running screws without a pilot hole creates extreme radial pressure, easily checking the slab around the fastener hole. Pilot holes must clear the minor diameter of the screw threads. Conversely, in species rated Poor like Jelutong or Cedrorana, coarse-threaded fasteners or through-anchored inserts provide better security against stripping under the weight of heavy assemblies.

Figure-8 Desktop Fasteners

Figure-8 fasteners pivot slightly in a shallow mortise to accommodate wood movement across the tabletop width. Because they rely on a single screw driven into the underside of the slab near the edges, splitting risks are concentrated. For species categorized as Good but pre-boring necessary, failing to drill a pilot hole can crack the timber precisely along the mortised edge, ruining the perimeter joint. When working with woods rated Good, such as Iroko or European Walnut, standard screw driving remains safe, though pre-boring remains good practice when driving close to ends or epoxy-wood bond lines.

Sources

Published October 30, 2026. Sources are linked in the text.

Header image: original graphic by BigEpoxy.com.

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